Alcoholic beverages – Drunken dogs are very sick dogs. An ounce of a beverage that is 20 to 40 proof can cause alcohol poisoning or coma in a small dog.

Angel hair – This is made from spun glass. It can irritate the skin, cause cuts, and damage the eyes. If eaten, it can cause intestinal blockage. Tinsel can also be ingested with the same results

Artificial Snow, flocking – These are possibly poisonous, can cause digestive upset or be a respiratory irritant if inhaled. Spray only the upper corners of high windows.

Candles – Flame or dripping wax can burn dogs or singe their whiskers or hair. Also, they are a fire hazard if the dog knocks them over. Save candles for the dining room table.

Christmas trees – Place your tree away from a normal traffic pattern. Tie the top of the tree with the fishing line and then secure this to the ceiling. By using this system the tree cannot fall over. Use non breakable ornaments on the lower section of the tree. Don’t leave a gift containing food under the tree.

Costumes and dressing up – If you like to ‘dress up’ your dog for the holidays, beware of anything which might cause strangulation or choking. Also be sure to introduce your dog to people in costumes. Let Santa say hello and give your dog some treats.

Electric cable – Dogs can be shocked, burned or electrocuted by chewing on cable. It is safer to run cables through PVC piping.

Decorations – Glue, rubber bands, staples, string, tacks and tape can cause mild pain, serious complications, or death if swallowed. Store them in a secure place. Discard used items when decorations are removed.

Decorative lights – Dogs can become tangled in the strands, leading to burns and cuts. They can create the same hazards as electric cables.

Fire/fireplaces, including ashes, popping wood – These can cause bronchial irritation, burns, skin irritation and digestive distress. Keep a fire screen in front of a fireplace while in use.

Food – Bones can cause choking, internal punctures, possibly death. Chocolate can cause

Theo bromine poisoning, which is an over stimulation of the nervous system, and may be fatal. Chocolate also causes vomiting, diarrhea, tremors, hyperactivity and seizures. Fatty, spicy, or sweet foods lead to gastric upset, dehydration and pancreatitis. Burns and mouth or throat ulcerations can result from hot food. Do not share your holiday goodies with your dog. If you can resist give a healthy treat. Do not leave cooking food unattended or set hot dishes near edge of stove or counter. Do not leave sweets or other snacks where your dog can reach them.

Gift wrapping – Ribbon, trim polystyrene foam packaging, wrapping foil and paper are dangerous if eaten by your dog. Always wrap packages in an area away from your dog. Collect and discard all the waste. Put away any wrapping paper and supplies you are not using. If you have any gifts for your dog, use plain brown paper, wrap loosely and supervise unwrapping.

Guests – Guests are more likely to feed your dog and “’just a little bite” adds up to quite a lot of food. Always advise your guests not to feed your dog. Guests are also more likely to accidentally let your dog out an opened door.

Plants such as holly, ivy, mistletoe and poinsettia – These plants range from mildly upsetting to extremely toxic. If eaten they can cause gastrointestinal irritation, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, drooling, coma, central nervous system or cardiac problems, or even death.

Remember your dog’s crate. It is a safe place for a dog to be when you are too busy to supervise your dog’s activities.

With a little bit of planning you and your dog can have a Safe and Happy Holiday Season.

© 2017

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We get some great tips from our friends at National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors, Inc. (NADOI), Pair this advice with the New Puppy Daily Checklist on our website and it’s a recipe for success! #welovedogs#adoptdontshop

The post Puppy Behavior appeared first on Dog Talk.

First, being successful in finding your lost dog is like most other endeavors, meaning be prepared!  It goes without saying that your dog should have a collar and tags on all the time, or at the very least your phone number embroidered on the collar if you don’t like dangle tags. Make sure your dog is micro-chipped, and that you have clear, color photos handy to put on flyers.  If you are in a neighborhood social media group, make sure you put the word out as soon as you notice your dog is missing.  Sharp-eyed neighbors can often spot your pet before he gets too far away.  If you see walkers in your neighborhood, ask them if they have seen your dog or if perhaps he has tried to follow them.  Call your shelter or pound and let them know (may take a trip down there in person but well worth the effort). And bear in mind that many shelters require that you prove rabies vaccination before they’ll release your dog.  So know where that documentation is.   Also check with area veterinarians, as many times people who find a dog will take it to the nearest vet to be scanned for a chip.  And just another word on chips….make sure the info on file is current and accurate.

Naturally, you will want to drive and walk the neighborhood to look for your dog.  If you have another dog, sometimes just seeing him will cause your dog to come to you if frightened.  And don’t give up too soon.  Offer a reward and keep at it.  Most lost dogs are found!

Submitted by:
Helen Cariotis #372
Duncanville, TX

The post What do you do if your dogs goes missing? appeared first on Dog Talk.

“Oh boy! We are going for a ride in the car! That always means something fun! I love running and playing! I especially like the river!

“Oh boy! Here we are! Look at this big space for me to run! I hope mom brought treats, too! It’s so fun to play that ‘come’ game where she calls my name, and when I get to her she gives me treats! I love that game so much!

“Oh no! What is happening! There are 3 dogs headed my way! All bigger than me! They are barking madly! They have hackles up! What did I do to make them want to charge me? I am so afraid! What should I do? I don’t know what to do! I am so afraid!”

“They just want to say, “Hello!” yells their owner.

My mom says, “Please call your dogs! I have a puppy that is very afraid of your dogs barking and hackling at her!”

“They’re friendly!” the other owner yells back.

“This is not a friendly way for a dog to approach a puppy!” mom says.

“Oh no! They are on top of me! I am going to roll on my back to let them know I am no threat! But, wait! All three of them are on top of me! One is biting my neck! I am so scared! I think I might get killed! I am going to stand up and nip at them to make them go away! Leave me alone! PLEASE!!! LEAVE ME ALONE!!!!”

“Well, you sure have a nasty dog, Lady!“ screams the other owner to my mom!

“Your dogs are obnoxious greeters and your dogs need to learn to come when they are called to avoid this! This is unacceptable! They are operating as a pack and see my puppy as prey! This could scar my puppy for life!” my mom says.

Encounters like this happen every day when dogs are allowed to run off leash. All dog owners want their dogs to have good experiences especially here where there are so many places for our dogs to enjoy the outdoors. With this freedom and the beautiful surroundings comes a responsibility when we take our dogs with us.

Please recognize social dog behavior and unsocial dog behavior. A dog that charges other dogs is not being friendly. It is bullying the other dog it is charging. Recognize that behavior for what it is and teach your dog to come when it is called BEFORE the bullying starts. Do not make excuses for your dog’s behavior by calling it “friendly” when it is not.

When you have a puppy, the last place you want to go is somewhere that much larger dogs you do not know are allowed to run free. Puppies should be exposed to older dogs that have good manners with puppies. Not all older, larger dogs like puppies.

If you are going to have a dog that you allow to run loose, be sure your dog DESERVES that freedom with good behavior so other dogs and PEOPLE are not injured in the process. Dog freedom is a privilege earned by good behavior, not a RIGHT. Take time to teach your dog right from wrong.

Written by NADOI Member Fran Jewell, Sun Valley, ID
NADOI # 1096.

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Do at least 3 sessions at each level before progressing. But do not progress until the dog is non reactive at the previous level. It is all right to do multiple sessions in a day.

When the dog is completely non-reactive at a given step, you can progress to the next step. Do not skip steps. If the dog backslides return to the step the dog is doing well and slowly progress.

1. Take dog outside leave the door open and ring the doorbell. Praise the dog and give it a treat. If it barks, tell it “Quiet” and then treat. Repeat until the dog does not bark or react to the sound of the doorbell.

2. Take dog outside and ring the doorbell. Open the door. Praise dog and give it a treat.

3. Bring the dog inside. Open the door so you can reach outside and ring the doorbell. Praise the dog and give it a treat.

4. Have someone the dog knows well (like a family member) stand outside and ring the doorbell with the door open. Praise the dog and treat.

5. Have someone the dog knows stand outside and ring the doorbell. Praise the dog and treat. Open the door. Give the dog a treat. Have the person outside give the dog a treat. Close the door and repeat.

6. Have someone the dog knows stand outside and ring the doorbell. Praise the dog. Open the door. Have the person outside give the dog a treat. Close the door and repeat.

7. Have someone the dog doesn’t know well stand outside and ring the doorbell. Praise the dog for quiet. Open the door. Give the dog a treat. Have the person outside give the dog a treat. Close the door and repeat.

8. Have someone the dog doesn’t know well stand outside and ring the doorbell. Praise the dog for quiet. Open the door. Have the person outside give the dog a treat. Close the door and repeat.

9. Have someone the dog doesn’t know well stand outside and ring the doorbell. Praise the dog for quiet. Open the door. Have the person outside give the dog a treat. Have them come in the house and give the dog a treat.

10. During this training if someone comes to visit that you are not expecting get “Quiet” reward and then ask the person to close the door and ring or knock again so that you are ready to cue quiet with a treat reward.

11. Repeat the sequence above with knocking rather than a doorbell.

HAMPL’S DOG OBEDIENCE

253-853-1984

@2005

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4. ROUND ROBIN RECALL

A game played by multiple family member households. You can use a long line if necessary. Children get the best treats. Adult stands behind the child in the beginning if necessary. Make a circle or square and call the dog between family members.

5. LONG LINE RECALLS

Allow the dog to drag a long line in the backyard or safe fenced area. If you call the dog and he does not respond bring him in to you by the long line. Praise and release the dog to go back to exploring.

8. DISTRACTION INTERUPTERS

Use a tennis ball or a squeak toy to get a distracted dog’s attention.

Until you are sure your dog will come when called do not use your recall word unless you can enforce the recall. Just say the dog’s name and if necessary move away from the dog.

Moving away will usually entice a dog to move toward you. Moving toward a dog will cause it to move away from you. When a dog comes to me I ask it to SIT in front and slip my hand into the collar then I treat and praise.

At some point we do have to take a leap of faith and let the dog loose. I do this in a secure area with a dog that has a perfect recall as a partner. I start to walk the field and reward the dog whenever it runs back to me, then I add a name and reward since it is usually following the other dog back to me. Then I add the command “come or here” and reward. The reward may be treats, a tennis ball, a squeaky depending on the dog. Of course the biggest reward of all is they are once again told to “Go Play”.

If the dog decides not to play my game I don’t waste my voice. I play with the second dog and when it checks us out I put the dog back on leash and go back a few training steps and try again in a week.
9. WHISTLE TRAINING

Once a dog is coming reliable when called you may wish to add a whistle as a long distance cue to come. The new cue, the whistle is taught using the formula: New cue followed by old cue equals behavior. This is an easy way to teach a new cue for an old behavior because dogs are anticipatory learners

It is never too late to retrain a good reliable recall!

Jeanne Hampl #962

Washington

The post Teaching a reliable “Come when called” Part 2 appeared first on Dog Talk.

A reliable recall can be taught to any dog no matter breed or age. I teach from the outline below over a six week class.  Here are the first three exercises to do, and we’ll talk about the rest in a future NADOI Tip.

1. THE NAME GAME: 

           1. Say your dog’s name, only one time .When your dog looks at you use your       verbal marker YES or Clicker and reward with treats, toys, verbal praise. Keep     rewarding as long as your dog is looking at you. Stop if your dog looks away.

            2. Repeat several times a day.

            3. Gradual add distractions. Make sure your reward is better than the distraction.

            4. Play often and reward generously until your dog spins on a dime when he hears his name.

2. HIDE AND SEEK

1. Fill your pocket with a really good treat or if it is close to your dog’s dinner take the bowl with you.

2. Have some one hold your dog while you bid him good bye.

3. Hide someplace very easy for your dog to find you.

4. Call your dog only using its name.

5. When the dog finds you feed and praise lavishly.

6. Play the game making it harder and harder both inside the house and in a fenced yard.

Notice we have yet to add a recall word such as COME or HERE.

Once the dog has the NAME GAME and HIDE and SEEK down pat then add your recall word only when the dog is committed and coming toward you and you are 100% sure that the dog will come. Only say your cue one time. Continue to reward lavishly.

3. ON LEASH RECALLS

    Put your dog on a long-line or a Flexi. Allow the dog to explore then suddenly say the dog’s name. If you have played the NAME GAME well your dog will turn and look at you.  Say YES or CLICK.  As the dog starts moving toward you for their treat add your recall cue, COME or HERE saying it only once. Repeat the on leash recall several times during your daily walks.

We will post another article in a week or two with the rest of the tips!

Jeanne Hampl #962

Washington

The post Teaching a reliable “Come when called” appeared first on Dog Talk.

1. You may love your first snowfall, but your dog may not. This can cause some dogs to come “un-housebroken”. Male dogs are usually less bothered by fairly deep snow because they hike their leg anyway. Dogs that squat to pee may be inhibited. We dig out a potty area for the dogs. For small dogs, it can be as small as 5×5 feet; a little bigger for large breeds. We dig it down so there is some grass poking through the snow. When the snow melts, it flushes the area so the grass isn’t damaged by a heavy concentration of urine.

2. Dogs with hairy feet will get snowballs between their toes if they are outside more than a few minutes. It pays to keep that hair on the bottoms of their feet trimmed short. They track in less mud when the snow melts, and they don’t get painful snowballs between their toes.

3. Alternatively, buy your dog a set of boots and prepare to be entertained while she learns to walk in them. Their high-stepping antics can be very entertaining. Boots are advisable if you plan to do any physical activities with your dogs. Snow can cause raw, bleeding feet on dogs that are not accustomed to snow.

3. Very smooth, short-haired dogs will need a protective sweater or jacket. Same goes for coated dogs that have a sparse coat for whatever reason.

4. Don’t expect your dog to eat snow for its water needs. This can cause hypothermia without providing enough water. Some snow is actually very “dry” which means the moisture content is very low.

5. This is where your training comes in handy. Keep a towel nearby for drying off your dog’s feet and legs when they come back indoors. 

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BONUS TIP:

The post A few new NADOI Tips appeared first on Dog Talk.

Tripp’s Dog Training Puppy Foundation Daily Checklist:

1. Until six months of age your puppy should be on a schedule of two hours in to every one hour out or one hour in to every one hour out of the crate throughout the day. Ideally you should have one crate of appropriate size in a quiet room away from activity so that your puppy can rest and gain confidence when not with you and a second crate in the family room for quick containment. When out of the crate your puppy should be working on potty- training, basic obedience, productive play or be tethered to the handler.

2. You should tether your puppy to you during quiet time when puppy is out of the crate and not otherwise engaged. This builds bonding, owner leadership and helps with supervision during potty -traning.

3. During potty -training never leave your puppy unattended even for a few minutes. Use the crate.

4. Supervise water and food intake for puppies during potty -training. Offer controlled amounts throughout the day so that you can time potty breaks to five minutes after water or food is offered. Stop offering water one hour before bed time.

5. Play for puppies should be oriented towards learning to be respectful. Games such as fetch should incorporate “sit” and “down” before you throw the ball and with puppy learning to give up the ball or toy to you upon retrieval. No wrestling on the ground, hand play or hand fighting and no tug of war UNLESS you are specifically working on puppy learning the “out” command. In that case, you must make sure your puppy releases the toy to you each time and you end the game by putting the toy away. You may exchange a chew bone at the end of the game for the toy.

6. Children must be supervised always with a puppy. It is the adult’s responsibility to train and care for the puppy. Do not allow roughhousing or play on the floor and respect your puppy’s boundaries. If puppy seems annoyed or distressed stop all play and give your puppy a break.

By NADOI member Sarah Tripp White #1118 C

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